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Los Angeles

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Universal Studios - Entertainment
100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City (summer daily 8am-10pm, rest of year daily 9am-7pm; 818/508-9600). A giant theme park featuring high-tech rides, special effects and the like based on film blockbusters. $36.


Beverly Hills/Rodeo Drive - Stargazing
Visitors center at 239 S Beverly Dr (310/248-1015 or 1-800/345-2210). Nouveau riche central, complete with poodle-walking movie stars, ultrachic boutiques, and plenty of attitude.


The Getty Center - Museum
1200 Getty Center Dr, West LA (Tues-Wed 11am-7pm, Thurs-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; $5 parking reservations at 310/440-7300). The oil mogul’s stash of European art, from ancient Greek to post-Impressionist, displayed in a colossal, hilltop museum. Free.


The Queen Mary - Historic
Queens Hwy S at Pier H, Long Beach (daily 10am-6pm; 562/432-6964). The grand luxury liner, also a hotel of 400 rooms and a sparkling re-creation of the Art Deco age.


Disneyland - Theme park
1313 Harbor Blvd, Anaheim (summer daily 8am-1am, rest of year Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 9am-midnight, Sun 9am-10pm; 714/781-4565). America’s original theme park, showing signs of age but still fun, with a newly refurbished Tomorrowland. $36, kids $30.


Made up of scores of distinct municipalities. Los Angeles is the epitome of modern city development, having traded urban centralization for suburban sprawl and an impressive skyline for endless strip malls. Nonetheless, some may find it appealing for its unpredictable and addictive assault on the senses, in which mud-wrestling clubs and porn shops stand next to chic boutiques and trendy restaurants – with the whole of it under constant threat of earthquake, riot, flood, fire, and other such calamities.

Appropriate for a city synonymous with urban sprawl, much of LA lies in a fairly flat basin, hemmed in by mountains and the ocean. Although the Santa Monica Mountains, one of the most unheralded of the city’s remaining natural treasures, splits LA in half between the familiar sights of La-La Land to the south and the charmless suburbs to the north, the metropolis is easily traversed by any of the region’s myriad freeways, provided you don’t dare venture onto them during rush hour.

Good places for visitors to explore include Hollywood, whose old-time movie glamour was tarnished long ago by prostitution and decay, but which has recently attempted a comeback thanks to urban renewal, Mid-Wilshire, the central strip of Wilshire Boulevard that features the faded Art Deco "Miracle Mile" zone and a clutch of good museums, and the beach towns of Santa Monica and Venice, where you can stroll along the former’s remodeled pier and Third Street Promenade outdoor mall, or visit the latter’s famed Muscle Beach and oceanside Boardwalk.

Lengthier trips to LA may include the old-fashioned charm of Old Pasadena, home of the ever-popular Rose Parade and Bowl, Downtown, site of much city heritage and setting for what skyscrapers the area does have, the South Bay, the place to find the region’s second biggest city of Long Beach, and Malibu, where you can try to get a glimpse of movie stars and assorted celebrities – provided a wildfire isn’t driving them into the sea. If all else fails, there’s always Orange County, principally known as the suburban home of Mickey Mouse.

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